17 Steps to an Exotic Saltwater Aquarium

17 Easy Steps to an Exotic Saltwater Aquarium

Building a saltwater aquarium is a rewarding pursuit that only .8 million households leap into. Most aquatic enthusiasts (13.9 million) opt for the freshwater tank that doesn’t involve mixing salt and water or obsessing about pH levels. While freshwater aquariums are unfussy the variety of fish pales in comparison to the colors and exotic varieties available to the saltwater aquarium. If you’ve been dreaming of building a saltwater aquarium, we’ll help you do it in 17 easy steps.

Which Fishy do you Wishy?

Choose a “must have” fish first, then select other fish based on the temperament (and diet) of the first fish. Choose your tank based on the mature size of your fish, how much territory the fish need, and the type of decorations they prefer. Let’s dive right in. The following are popular among saltwater aquarium owners.

Basselets are a pretty as they are social and eager about schooling. These carnivores grow to six inches and live up to four years. Varieties include Anthias (pictured), grammas and dottybacks.

Wrasses keep other fish parasite free, a service not appreciated by smaller fish that get injured. (The point: don’t add small fish to tanks with wrasses.) These bottom feeders need sandy substrates to hide in. They live up to four years, grow to 6 inches and are carnivores.

Butterfly fish bedazzle with their beauty. These aggressive carnivores need large tanks that are free of anemones, coral and invertebrates. They live four years and grow to six inches.

Damsels will be in distress unless they live in a 50+ gallon tank with coral formations. They live up to four years and grow to three inches. With the exception of the Green Chromis, Damsels are aggressive, so limit them to one per tank.

Triggerfish are packed with personality. These omnivores are territorial and aggressive, so only include them in 100+ gallon tanks.

Surgeons (Blue Tang pictured) spontaneously dart around, so provide them with open space free of obstructions. Limit one per tank since they are aggressive to their own kind. These herbivores live up to 3 years and grow to 7 inches in length.

It’s hard not to find Nemo these days since the clownfish is in almost every saltwater tank! Some factors to understand with clownfish are 1) don’t put triggerfish and clownfish in the same tank 2) limit clownfish to one if you also have sea anemones, or the fish will become very aggressive. Clownfish live up to 10 years and grow to 3 inches.

Mandarins are gorgeous fish with purple, orange and green patterns. These bottom dwellers thrive in environments with sand, live 4 years and grow to 6 inches. Add only one to smaller tanks with only nonaggressive fish.

Also popular in saltwater tanks are star fish, sea hares, squid, sea urchins, and crabs.

Setting up a Saltwater Aquarium

Once you know the type of fish you’ll want and how much space they require, purchase and set up the tank. All items listed below can be purchased at a pet supply store or at a reputable online store. Buy only aquarium approved items and make sure all electrical equipment is UL listed. Ready? Let’s get this aquarium started!

Step One: Put the tank in a bathtub and fill the tank with water to check for leaks. Use a chemical/soap free sponge to scrub all areas. Never use cleaners as residue will disrupt water quality. Rinse and repeat several times.

Step Two: Apply a background to the exterior back pane of the tank. The multi-purpose background makes the tank appear larger, provides a backdrop for fish and hides chords that run behind the tank.

Step Three: Set the tank stand on a level floor, near an outlet, out of direct sunlight and away from vents. Make sure the stand is strong enough to hold the tank when filled. (One gallon of water is just over 8 pounds, so a 40 gallon tank will weigh more than 320 pounds when filled.)

Step Four: Fish give off ammonia through their gills and waste and ammonia is also created by decaying food. If not broken down by filtration, ammonia can kill fish.

1. Biological filtration works when “good” bacteria grow on rocks and decorations and breaks down the ammonia into less harmful chemicals that will be eliminated when the water is changed.

2. Chemical filtration is an additive that dissolves particles such as fish waste, before they give off harmful ammonia.

3. Mechanical filtration cleans water by forcing it through a screen or sponge.

Step Five: If adding rock formations (optional) rinse rocks and seal them to the tank base with an approved aquarium sealant.

Step Six: Set up the aquarium heater or aquarium chiller. According to the American Humane Society, fish need temperatures of about 70-78 degrees.

Step Seven: The two types of lighting for the tank are fluorescent or incandescent. If you plan on adding plants you will need about 1.5-3 watts per gallon of the tank. Lights should be on about 10-12 hours each day.

Step Eight: Saltwater invertebrate cannot swim to find what they need within water, so you must constantly bring new water to them by adding water flows and aeration.

Step Nine: Fill three-quarters of the tank with lukewarm water.

Step Ten: Mix salt into the water by following the instructions on the salt container. Test the salinity and temperature with a hydrometer to make sure the salt to water ratio is correct.

Step Eleven: Turn on the filter. You’ll notice the water level recedes when the filter intakes water. To fix the level, add water until it is an inch from the top (with the filter still running.) Next, test the pH level and if the reading is not 7.6-8.4 make the proper adjustments by adding salt and retesting.

Step Twelve: Test the temperature, salinity and ammonia levels.

Step Thirteen: Add a marine buffer to the water following the instructions on the container.

Step Fourteen: Gravel is used to create a pleasing environment for fish and as a form of biological filtration. Popular substrate includes gravel, sand (test the pH level before adding), crushed corals and dolomite. Create a 2-2.5 inch layer at the bottom of the tank creating hills and valleys. Do not use painted gravel, metal, glass or shiny objects. Create hiding spots for the fish. An open landscape will stress fish and ultimately make them less healthy and inactive. After decorating, at least 50% of the tank should be filled with substrate, plants (optional) and decorations. Don’t worry, fish love cover, so 50-75% of this will make the fish feel secure instead of vulnerable.

Step Fifteen: The water must “cycle” for 6 weeks before adding fish. This allows the “good” bacteria to grow. If you add fish without the bacteria produced during cycling your fish will die off. Be sure to test the temperature, salinity and ammonia regularly during this cycle.

Step Sixteen: After 6 weeks, change one-third of the water. Prepare the new water using salt and marine buffer as done in steps 10 and 13. Now test the temperature, nitrate and pH levels.

Step Seventeen: You should only have one fish per six gallons of water, but to start, add only a fish or two at a time, so they can establish territory and de-stress.

Maintaining the Tank

Now that your aquarium is up and running you must maintain it. Everyday you need to check the temperature and observe the color, behavior and eating habits of your fish to make sure they are healthy. Make sure the water is clear and odorless. Test the water quality daily (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, oxygen, carbon dioxide and pH levels.) Look over the tank and make sure the pumps, filters, heaters, aquarium chillers and lighting are working properly. Once per week change one-third of the water, vacuum the bottom of the tank, clean filters and the sides of the tank. Purchase a good saltwater aquarium owner’s guide for detailed cleaning information, tips on feeding, and fish first aid and you’re equipped with everything you need to maintain a healthy aquarium that will bring enjoyment to you and the fish for years.